From Panama, With Love

"You will want to wear shoes that cover your toes tomorrow. The forest is full of tree roots! But don't bother with a rain jacket. I just let myself get wet - the heat will dry things out quickly." It seemed that every few hours, Alex Guevara, our faithful Panamanian guide, provided steady instructions to prepare us for unfamiliar conditions in the sweltering and lush forests we were fortunate to be exploring. I was grateful for that - the expert guidance, the general relinquishment of group leadership responsibilities, and the new habitat - but had to quietly chuckle every time Alex warned us against thick vegetation, humidity, dehydration, and mosquitoes. "Sounds just like a Wisconsin summer day," I'd say to myself.

I've spent a week now back home, slowly unpacking my hefty load of luggage as I simultaneously unpack my weighty thoughts on the recent trip to Panama. I traveled a long way and for nearly two weeks to experience new people, landscapes, and sensations. Yet, despite all the new experiences, there were many moments that felt eerily similar to life back home. 

Alex took great care of our group, ensuring that we were faces with 
an abundance of learning opportunities, and regular reminders to 
stay hydrated!

We traveled through a diverse variety of habitats within the relatively small country- from thick rainforests heading east up the Chagres River down to the dry, hot lowlands and Gulf of Parita beaches along the eastern edge of the Azuero Peninsula. Each habitat held both newness and familiarity.

The evening mosquito swarms in Gamboa, along the Panama Canal watershed, were reminiscent of those that move in as night approaches during our family pontoon outings to Lake Namakagon many summer nights. The impressive canopy above the banks of the Chagres River, with towering cuipo trees overhead, made the size of the largest hemlocks and yellow birches in our older forests back home feel quite insignificant by comparison. 

Cuipo trees are common in dry areas of Panama and Panama City. This
individual was spotted unusually far west. They are easily recognized
with smooth bark, and bulbous trunk base, and impressive crowns.

Dense agricultural fields along the busy highways leading west out of Panama City reminded me of childhood drives in Central Wisconsin, though the cornfields were replaced by sugarcane. The many workers, achieving much of the laborious task by hand, looked like little army ants under the sweltering sun's rays. Raptors watched the fields from overhead - but we had no sight of the usual American Kestrel or Bald Eagle that frequent my routes back in Wisconsin. Instead, we were met with countless Black and Turkey Vultures overhead, Cattle Egrets below and the single, welcomed Savanna Hawk. 

While in the Herrera province, we came across many sugar cane fields. The cane is planted and harvested largely by hand and machete. The process requires a lot of human effort and often in incredible heat and sun!

Our guide, Alex is an expert birder and took every opportunity to point out birds along our journey. This Savanna Hawk was spotted along a major highway - we had to stop!

And the people of Panama, well, their character is much like that typical of the Midwestern communities back home. My fellow Northwoods travel companions and I never left a meal hungry. We were regularly offered generous portions of hearty, homecooked food. Just switch out the potatoes for yuca or plantain. We were also always met with a smile, "hello", or hug - often all three. In parting, we usually left considered familia and were told to visit again soon. Lifestyles in Panama tend to be leisurely, and largely reliant and in-tune with the land. Seasonal downpours, or unseasonal drought, and the various effects of a changing climate are a big concern as Panamanians look to the future. They are also incredibly resilient people.

Searching for a good spot to view wetland birds in the Azuero Peninsula, 
a local family was kind enough to allow us on their property.

While in the culturally-rich Herrera province, we enjoyed many visits with local artisans. Lunch this day was prepared by the group. Here we're making patacones, or fried plantain.

After allowing us on their property for birding, a local family in the El Rodeo area
of the Azuero Peninsula took some time to chat with us. We shared our
stash of lollipops with the children. They were ecstatic!

We visited with a dress-making family, skilled in the creation of polleras,
Panama's stunning national dress.

Several thousand miles of distance does little to alter the experience of engaging with our respective homelands. For Alex, it's a matter of bringing voice to Panamanians as he guides visitors, largely from the United States and Europe. He first helps bring awe to our experience of the diverse flora and fauna moving throughout the isthmus, then hits us with the hard realities that Panamanian people and wildlife face - from the lasting effects of colonialism to apparent governmental disregard for habitat and wildlife preservation. 

I too do my best to share the stories of Northwoods Wisconsin nature, and pay heed to ecological knowledge built by the people who have stewarded this special place since millennia before my time. Our experiences hold threads of similarities but are yet uniquely tied to place.

We spent a spectacular day with the people of the Embera Drua village along the Chagres River. They welcomed our group with songs and dance.

I'm not sure I'd want to live anywhere else in the world but the Northwoods, but I sure was happy to swap out eight days of office work under dark, snowless skies for an incredible experience of Panama through the guidance of Alex. I'm thankful for experiencing his interpretation of that special place, and hope to carry some lessons he's taught us back to my special place.

Our incredible in-country Holbrook team! Alex Guevara is a top-tier guide and birding expert. Winston created a wonderful program, and driver Victor kept us safe on the road.

From Wisconsin to Panama, and back again, with love.